Welt Pocket

[j***@schmidling.com]

I am in the process of learning how to make a welt pocket, starting
with the slanted breast pocket. I have tried half a dozen different
procedures with varying results but one basic detail escapes me in all
the instructions.

What is the relationship between the width of the welt and the width of
the slash?

Is a pocket defined by the welt, the slash, the opening, the pouch?

The other problem I have is that after stitching the slanted welt in
place and turning it up, there is always a tag hanging out on one side.
If one cuts a parallelagram out of paper and folds one long side a
seam allowance from the edge, the problem is obviously real. How does
one deal with this.

js


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[Kitty]

it should be on the inside, so it wouldn't matter. if it is on the
outside, it means you probably didn't turn something in when you should
have.

the width of the pocket is the pouch.

the welt will appear to be as wide as the slash, but will continue on
the inside for a half inch or so on each side. on the inside, that
extra should be stitched to the pouch, when you stitch the sides of the
pouch, so it can't fold back out again. everything you would see or
feel from the outside should be completely finished, no loose threads
or unfinished seams or edges. all the edges of the fabrics are only
visible on the inside.

Hope this helps, Kitty

[g***@mchsi.com]

Dear Jack,

I'm assuming you're doing a single welt. Construct the welt first.
Don't do any slashing until the welt and pocket bag are sewn in place.
Careful marking of the pocket bag is crucial, because it folds over and
sews together after it's turned to the inside. Mark the lines for the
slash on the inside of the garment. Baste the welt in place (upside
down, with raw edges at the center of the marked opening) on the
outside. Place the pocket bag on top of the welt. Now begin sewing
through all layers, from the inside of the garment, so that you can see
the markings. Before cutting anything, check the ends of the pocket to
make sure that you are exactly at the ends of the welt. I like to
backstitch to strengthen. Leave 1/2 inch uncut at the ends of the
slash marking, then cut into the corners, making "pie" shapes at the
ends. It's important to snip right up to, but not through, the
stitching. If done correctly, the pocket will fall into place when
turned, and needs only pressing and sewing of the sides of the pocket
bag. I like to hand-sew the ends of the welt, so nothing shows from
the outside.

Good luck!

Teri

[j***@schmidling.com]

Post by g***@mchsi.com
I'm assuming you're doing a single welt.

Don't know any other. It is the outside breast pocket on a man's
suitcoat.

Post by g***@mchsi.com
Leave 1/2 inch uncut at the ends of the
slash marking, then cut into the corners, making "pie" shapes at the
ends. It's important to snip right up to, but not through, the
stitching. If done correctly, the pocket will fall into place when
turned, and needs only pressing and sewing of the sides of the pocket
bag.....

So the welt is exactly the same length as the slash including the pie
snips?

Most of what I have seen has the bag wider then the slash so it has to
be notched to fit into the slash. Doesn't sound like what you are
doing.

js



--
PHOTO OF THE WEEK: http://schmidling.com/pow.htm
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http://schmidling.com

[Sarah Dale]

Post by j***@schmidling.com
So the welt is exactly the same length as the slash including the pie
snips?
Most of what I have seen has the bag wider then the slash so it has to
be notched to fit into the slash. Doesn't sound like what you are
doing.

Hi Jack,

Welt pockets are right little b*gg$rs aren't they. I made a waiscoat
(vest) for my Dad for Xmas 2004, and had to read the directions about 5
times (which included turning the book through 90deg a couple of times,
going "you what?" in a clueless fashion, and asking for some help here!)
and do two practice pockets before I felt they were good enough for the
real thing!

As others have advisded, it may be worth your time to get one or more
books out of the library that show how to make pockets - it may be you
find a clue in one book that gives you the ! that's how to to it ! moment.

The width of the pocket opening is determined by the length of the
slash, in the rectangle you sew to contain the welt / slash. The depth
of the welt is determined by its width and how you position it with
respect to the opening, the trick is to get that opening the same width
as the welt (or welts).

You must ensure that the welt (or both welts with a double welt pocket)
is longer than the slash by two seam alloances - i.e 1 to 1.5 inches
longer, and that the pocket bag is the same width as the welts.

Once you get your mind round HOW the wretched things are made, its just
down to precision, accurate to the last mm sewing, cutting and pressing.
Following each step in the book, even if it doesn't make sense to start
with is good as well.

One thing I can tell you is that everything should end up on the inside,
leaving you a smooth, flat surface on the outside, with no hint of
construction showing. You do partially construct it from the outside
before turning it through the slash.

Why don't you practice on a horizontal welt pocket first, rather than
attempting a diagonal one? It will allow you to get the technique
correct using on grain fabric, before you have to start worrying about
technique and bias cuts at the same time.

Try also looking at the directions for making welt buttonholes - VERY
similar, and I actually found these directions easier to understand than
the pocket ones!

(PS - loved the coat!)

HTH, Sarah

[Doreen]

Post by Sarah Dale
Hi Jack,
Welt pockets are right little b*gg$rs aren't they. I made a waiscoat
(vest) for my Dad for Xmas 2004, and had to read the directions about 5
times (which included turning the book through 90deg a couple of times,
going "you what?" in a clueless fashion, and asking for some help here!)
and do two practice pockets before I felt they were good enough for the
real thing!
As others have advisded, it may be worth your time to get one or more
books out of the library that show how to make pockets - it may be you
find a clue in one book that gives you the ! that's how to to it ! moment.
The width of the pocket opening is determined by the length of the
slash, in the rectangle you sew to contain the welt / slash. The depth
of the welt is determined by its width and how you position it with
respect to the opening, the trick is to get that opening the same width
as the welt (or welts).
You must ensure that the welt (or both welts with a double welt pocket)
is longer than the slash by two seam alloances - i.e 1 to 1.5 inches
longer, and that the pocket bag is the same width as the welts.
Once you get your mind round HOW the wretched things are made, its just
down to precision, accurate to the last mm sewing, cutting and pressing.
Following each step in the book, even if it doesn't make sense to start
with is good as well.
One thing I can tell you is that everything should end up on the inside,
leaving you a smooth, flat surface on the outside, with no hint of
construction showing. You do partially construct it from the outside
before turning it through the slash.
Why don't you practice on a horizontal welt pocket first, rather than
attempting a diagonal one? It will allow you to get the technique
correct using on grain fabric, before you have to start worrying about
technique and bias cuts at the same time.
Try also looking at the directions for making welt buttonholes - VERY
similar, and I actually found these directions easier to understand than
the pocket ones!
(PS - loved the coat!)
HTH, Sarah

This is good advice. One other thing I would mention is a possible
difficulty with the V-shaped clips at either end of the stitching; if
the fabric isn't tightly woven, it is apt to fray at these points. In
my experience, with many fabrics it is a great help to first attach a
rectangle of fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the garment, just
a little wider and longer than the area to be stitched. This acts as a
stabilizer...it's also easier to see the stitching lines when they're
marked on interfacing, usually.

I have every confidence that Jack's welt pockets will be splendid.

Doreen in Alabama

[t***@cybermesa.net]

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles.sewing,alt.sewing
I am in the process of learning how to make a welt pocket, starting
with the slanted breast pocket. I have tried half a dozen different
procedures with varying results but one basic detail escapes me in
all the instructions.
What is the relationship between the width of the welt and the
width of the slash?
Is a pocket defined by the welt, the slash, the opening, the pouch?
The other problem I have is that after stitching the slanted welt in
place and turning it up, there is always a tag hanging out on one
side. If one cuts a parallelagram out of paper and folds one long
side a seam allowance from the edge, the problem is obviously real.
How does one deal with this.
js
--
PHOTO OF THE WEEK: http://schmidling.com/pow.htm
Astronomy, Beer, Cheese, Fiber,Gems, Sausage,Silver
http://schmidling.com

For the last month or so, Kathleen Fasanella has been writing tutorials
on design and sewing of zippered openings, on her blog,

www.fashion-incubator.com [new address]

She is currently doing welt pockets.

See May archive too for earlier zipper articles.


Tom Willmon
Mountainair, (mid) New Mexico, USA

Net-Tamer V 1.12.0 - Registered

[mamahays]

Post by j***@schmidling.com
I am in the process of learning how to make a welt pocket, starting
with the slanted breast pocket. I have tried half a dozen different
procedures with varying results but one basic detail escapes me in all
the instructions.

Jack,

Sometimes it's helpful to see a lot of construction pictures. This book
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1561581704/qid=1119263760/sr=2-1/ref=pd_bbs_b_2_1/002-1388047-2758446

is a good one. "Just Pockets" by Pattricia Moyes. Great instructions and
great pictures throughout. (I have this one in my sewing library, because
welt pockets made me nuts when I first tried them. lol) Check your local
public library too. But if you were of a mind to put together a good sewing
library, this might be a good addition. ;)

Good luck!!

Sharon
---oh, and my only other advice on welt pockets.....a good cussing seems to
help the really tricky ones fall in line. ;)

[g***@mchsi.com]

Dear Jack,

The pocket bag is longer than the finished sides of the welt. A seam
allowance's width on each side.

Oh, and I forgot the cussing step--very important.

Teri

[Kate Dicey]

Post by j***@schmidling.com
I am in the process of learning how to make a welt pocket, starting
with the slanted breast pocket. I have tried half a dozen different
procedures with varying results but one basic detail escapes me in all
the instructions.
What is the relationship between the width of the welt and the width of
the slash?

They end up exactly the same.

Post by j***@schmidling.com
Is a pocket defined by the welt, the slash, the opening, the pouch?

The welt. It's the bit you see.

Post by j***@schmidling.com
The other problem I have is that after stitching the slanted welt in
place and turning it up, there is always a tag hanging out on one side.
If one cuts a parallelagram out of paper and folds one long side a
seam allowance from the edge, the problem is obviously real. How does
one deal with this.

I'm not quite sure what you mean...

I used to be very afraid of welt pockets: the patterns never seemed to
quite work. Then I did 25 or more waistcoats for a craft fair, each of
which had two pockets! I didn't really use a pattern for the welts.
After that, they have never been a problem. Something you might like to
see is Just Pockets by Patricia Moyes, ISBN 1-56158-170-4 (Taunton,
1997) $19.95